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This functional bookcase offers an enchanting twist for your little prince or princess. There's space for books, knick-knacks, and a storage drawer at the bottom.
Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.
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Begin by cutting sides A, top B, and bottom C to length (Cutting List). Drill three pocket holes on each end of the inside faces of the sides (Case & Trim). Sand all inside faces of the parts with 120-grit paper.
Attach the sides to the top and bottom using wood glue and pocket hole screws.
Cut the center back slats D to length and end back slats E to width and length and join the boards together using pocket holes, screws, and wood glue to form the back assembly.
Lay out and cut the arch on the bottom of the back assembly (Cutting Template). The pattern for the front skirt G, front trim I, and back assemblies D and E utilize the same size cutout. Using a jigsaw, cut the opening and sand smooth.
Position case assembly on a flat surface; attach back assembly to the case assembly using wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brads.
Cut the shelves F to length and drill pocket holes on the bottom face -- three at each end and three on the edge joining to the back assembly. Position the shelves as shown (Case & Trim) and secure in position using wood glue and pocket hole screws.
Without an arch, the bookcase will rock if the floor is uneven; isolating the corners adds stability.
Cut front skirt G and end skirts H to length (Cutting List). Miter-cut both ends of the front skirt and one end of each of the end skirts.
Mark and cut the arch on the skirt boards (Cutting Template) using a jigsaw; sand smooth.
Position the front skirt in place so the top edge of the board is flush with the inside surface of the bottom and the miters align with the sides of the case. Secure with wood glue and brads.
Align the miters and secure the end skirts in place using glue and brads.
Cut front trim I to length and miter each end. Make the arch cut and sand smooth.
Align the ends of the miters with the case sides and place trim so the top edge is 3/4 of an inch above the top B. Install using wood glue and brads.
From 1/2-inch material, rip the stiles J to width and cut to length to fit between the front skirt and front trim. Align outside edge of stile with outside face of the case; attach using wood glue and brads.
Also from 1/2-inch material, cut the shelf nosing K to length to fit between the stiles. Glue and brad the nosings in position -- centered on the width of the edge of the shelves.
Complete the trim by adding the end trim L; cut parts to length, miter one end, and cut arch detail. Align the miters (Case & Trim); install using wood glue and brads.
Install a 1/4-inch rabbeting bit in a router table. Raise it 1/4-inch above the table and cut a 1/4 x 1/4-inch rabbet (Drawer) along one edge of the 1/2-inch material, long enough to make the drawer front M and the drawer sides N.
From the boards, cut the drawer front and sides to length, then rip to the width (Cutting List).
With the rabbet facing inside, position the sides flush with ends and bottom of the drawer front; attach using wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brads.
From 1/4-inch stock, cut the drawer bottoms O to length and width.
Glue and nail drawer bottoms in position using 5/8-inch brads, setting the edge of the first board against the rabbet in the drawer front. Glue the second board in position against the first, securing to the sides with brads.
Cut drawer back P to size; attach using wood glue and brads; align flush with the bottom and sides of the drawer.
For drawer face Q, cut a 3/4-inch board to width and length. Cut the drawer pull detail and attach to the drawer box using wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brads; position face so it's centered left to right and 11/16 of an inch from the bottom of the drawer assembly. Drive brads from inside of the drawer to minimize nail holes.
From 3/4-inch stock, cut drawer runners R and case runners S to length. Apply two of the runners on the bottom of the drawer assembly 1-1/4-inches in from each drawer end; position the third at the center of the drawer bottom. Attach with wood glue and brads through the runners into drawer front and back.
Set case runners in position (Finishing Touches) and attach using wood glue and brads.
Cut the short tower sides T, long tower sides U, and tower ends V to size (Cutting List).
Measure and mark the notches on the tower ends and window openings (Cutting Template) on two tower ends using the grid to transfer the pattern.
Drill a 3/8-inch clearance pilot hole in the window openings for access with your jigsaw blade; cut out the window openings and notches.
Position the short tower sides and long tower sides so the tops of the sides are 3/4 of an inch below the tops of the tower ends (Castle Top); attach using wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brads.
Place the four tower assemblies flush with inside edges of the corners of the top of the bookcase assembly. Measure the distance between tower assemblies on the front and sides to get measurements for the length of the front wall X, back wall Y, and the width of the side walls W.
Cut front, back, and side walls to size; cut the window openings in side walls (Cutting Template).
Position side walls flush with outer edge of the tower assemblies; attach using pocket hole screws.
Cut the opening in the front wall for the drawbridge (Cutting Template).
Attach the front and back walls to the tower assemblies and top C using pocket hole screws where shown.
Cut the drawbridge Z to specified dimensions and transfer the pattern to the part; jigsaw the drawbridge and sand the cut smooth.
Cut the catch block AA to size and secure in position (Castle Top), centering the catch 1/2 of an inch down from the inside top edge of front wall; use wood glue and 1-1/4-inch brads.
Place the castle assembly on the case (Finishing Touches) and position the drawbridge centered under the front wall and attach to the front trim with hinges and included hardware. Attach the two parts of the magnetic catch to the drawbridge and the catch block per the manufacturer's instructions.
Fill all holes with wood filler except for the pocket holes for the screws that attach the castle assembly to the top. Sand all the surfaces with 150-grit paper.
Following the templates for the large shields BB and small shields CC, measure, mark, and cut the parts. Drill a countersunk pilot hole in the center of the shields for the 3/4-inch screws.
For the optional doll hooks DD, transfer the pattern to ¾" thick stock and cut to shape with a jigsaw; sand smooth. Place a piece of masking tape at the locations for the hooks (Finishing Touches).
Remove hardware, prime and paint, and let dry.
Customize your Book Castle by changing the colors of the castle assembly and shields.
For the decorative brickwork, lightly brush Dove's Cry CI 63 in a random pattern over the City Chic CI 51 and allow it to dry. Now draw a grid pattern using a framing square as a guide and paint the lines with Dark Kettle Black 4011-2.
The vines are painted with Later Gator CI 245. We created the leaves by dabbing the end of an artist's brush at alternating angles.
Position the large shields centered across the width of the sides and 4 inches below the bottom edge of the end trim, secure using 3/4-inch screws.
Position the small shields centered across the width and 1 inch below the top edge of the drawer face and drawbridge, secure using 3/4-inch screws.
Reinstall the hardware and add the doll hooks -- remove masking tape and glue in position, holding them in place with painter's tape until the glue dries. Remove tape and drive a screw from the inside to add strength to the joint as shown.
Do not glue the shields or castle assembly. As your child grows and changes his or her design style, you can remove both and have a classic and functional bookcase.