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Give a dated bathroom mirror a fresh new look by wrapping it in a crisp, white frame. Or, customize the frame style and finish to match the rest of the bath.
Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.
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This project assumes you're trimming an existing mirror, but we'll explain how to install a new mirror at the end of the frame instructions. Measure the mirror and add 2 inches to the length and width. Cut the top, bottom, and sides to those lengths (on the outside edge) with 45-degree miters on both ends. (This should leave a 1-in overhang when installed on the mirror.) Using painter's tape to hold the corners together, assemble the frame without glue on a flat surface to check for gaps.
One secret to a great-looking frame is to cut opposite parts to identical lengths. Check the part lengths against each other -- not a tape measure -- to make certain they're equal.
Apply an even coat of interior/exterior construction adhesive on the mitered ends of each joint and assemble the frame on a flat surface using painter's tape; let dry.
Fill any miter gaps with spackle or wood putty, wipe away the excess, and let dry. Then apply two coats of paint.
Working at least 1 inch in from the outside edges around the back of the frame, apply two parallel 1/4-in beads of construction adhesive. Gently press and hold the frame on the mirror to leave a 1-in overhang on all four sides. Immediately check the frame with a level and make adjustments as needed. If necessary, use painter's tape to hold the frame against the wall while the adhesive sets.
The thickness of the mirror can leave a gap around the edge of the frame. If that's a problem, fill the gap with a bead of caulk and smooth the caulk even with the edges of the frame. A little touchup paint around the edge of the mirror will hide the patch.
Mirrors can be heavy, so find a helper to lift and position mirrors too large to handle alone. To support a mirror in position while the adhesive dries, nail a straight piece of removable scrap wood to the wall, with the top edge even with where you want the bottom of the mirror. If you have a tile wall or other surface that can't be nailed and there's a vanity underneath, measure from the top of the vanity to the bottom edge of where the mirror will go. Then cut spacers to that length and rest them on the vanity.
Apply evenly spaced spirals of mirror adhesive around the back of the mirror (shown resting loose on a frame) according to the manufacturer's directions. Avoid using general-purpose construction adhesive to hang a mirror. You need a formula that won't weaken or dissolve the reflective coating on the back.
Place the mirror in position starting at the bottom, tilt the top up against the wall, and press gently but evenly around the mirror. Use painter’s tape at the top of the mirror to hold it in place while the adhesive dries. Then attach the frame as described in the previous section.