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HGTV's Rate My Space is teaming up with Lowe's to test the inner designer in all of us. The TV show takes low-rated spaces from HGTV.com/ratemyspace and gives them complete transformations. The homeowners pick three rooms from HGTV.com that inspire them. Then designer Angelo Surmelis and the homeowners head to Lowe's to pick up the items they need to give their space the perfect makeover. Once complete, viewers give the newly designed rooms a second-chance rating at HGTV.com/ratemyspacetv!

Episode Guide

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Matthews Four Seasons 30"W x 72"H Coastal Grey Gardengate Trellis Item# 25895Model# OGG2GY

EDEN ARBORS 45"W x 89"H Grand Athens Arbor Item# 186313Model# VA68100

Garden Treasures 3pc Wicker Bistro Set Item# 143697Model# JDC-1434JDT-14

Garden Treasures Privacy Screen Item# 79742Model# PS-01D

Nexgrill Gas & Charcoal Island Grill Item# 296477Model# 720-0677

Hunter 52" Northshore Rustic Bronze Ceiling Fan Item# 190608Model# 20721

Garden Treasures 3'5" Branches Bench Item# 35492Model# WDC-9009

Garden Treasures 6-Piece Evanwood Patio Furniture Set Item# 143725Model#

Garden Treasures Steel Chiminea Item# 291627Model# L-CM033PST-2

Garden Treasures Living Cushioned Woven Chairs, Set of 2 Item# 294965Model# 839SS

Garden Treasures Living 2-Piece Pensacola Patio Furniture Set Item# 294964Model# 839LC

Garden Treasures Living Illuminated Ice Bucket Item# 67479Model# 920

Grosfillex 18" Roma Brushed Verdigris Urn Item# 255530Model# US302149

Southern Patio 13" Sand Taper Planter Item# 282267Model# HDR-463882

36"P x 48"W Sunbrella Forest Green Courtyard Door Awning Item# 139067Model# CY3648FG

2-Piece Coconut Grove Patio Furniture Set Item# 294963Model# WZ1342

Bel Air Lighting 3-Tier Rope Fountain Item# 208082Model# 208082

Additional products used in this episode of "Rate My Space" can be found at your local Lowe's.

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Related Project

PROJECT: Building A Redwood Patio Deck

Adding a redwood deck in your backyard is an investment that will last a lifetime. Redwood's durability and versatility make it a well-sought material. One of the qualities that make it stand out is how it ages. Redwood looks better ten to twenty years after construction. Building a redwood deck is not a quick process, but the final product is well worth the time and money spent.

Step 1

Decide where you want your deck positioned and the dimensions.

Step 2

Mark joist placement on house.

Step 3

Make a level line for height of ledger. Note: This should be 1 1/2" below overall desired height of the deck.

Step 4

Attach 2' X 8' ledger with 4" lag bolts and anchors where necessary.

Step 5

Mark the ledger 2' from each end and at the center point.

Step 6

Using your deck plans find the finished end of the deck and secure 3 batten boards into the ground in accordance with the marks on the ledger, and roughly about the same height as the ledger.

Step 7

Next add batten boards along the finished sides of the deck, at the 6' and 12' points.

Step 8

Tack a 10d nail into the batten boards and the bottom of the ledger, and attach masonry string.

Step 9

Using a plumb bob and line level determine your post holes. Mark the 6 post holes; (3) at the 6' mark and (3) at the 12' mark.

Step 10

Using a shovel, dig the holes a minimum of 14" deep and 8" wide. Note: Check your local code for building specifications.

Step 11

Add 2" of loose gravel to the bottom of each hole.

Step 12

Level the 8" concrete footing form against the mason's string, pour the concrete, and set the direct-bearing hardware into the wet concrete, using the mason's string to ensure alignment.

Step 13

Allow concrete to harden.

Step 14

Cut (4) 2' X 8' beams to the same length as the ledger board.

Step 15

Laminate into two beams by gluing and screwing two boards together.

Step 16

Dry fit onto direct-bearing hardware.

Step 17

Attach outside joist to the ledger and beams, using 4" galvanized nails.

Step 18

Attach joist hangers and joists at 16" on center intervals with galvanized nails.

Step 19

Attach beams to the direct-bearing hardware using galvanized nails.

Step 20

Add 4' X 4' pressure treated posts to the outer joist where necessary for your design.

Step 21

Starting at the house, lay 2' X 6' redwood boards across the joist's allowing the excess to extend over the end. Note: Use spacers between boards. 10d nails are a good spacing.

Step 22

Once the last board is down, chalk a line that runs with the outside of the joist.

Step 23

Using a circular saw, follow the chalk line for a straight and consistent line.

Step 24

Add 2' X 12' redwood to the outside of the deck as a skirt. Best to use miter cuts and flush to the top of the decking.

Step 25

Chalk a line over each of the joists and screw down with 3" redwood screws.

Step 26

Add vinyl posts over 4' X 4'.

Step 27

Cut railing to length and install with manufacturer's hardware.

Step 28

Seal or stain to your liking.

Step 29

Start enjoying backyard living!!!!

Be on the Show Does your space need design help? When you share your pictures online with us at HGTV.com/ratemyspace, you're automatically considered for a makeover on the Rate My Space show.

Headwest Stratford Black Item# 239771 Model# 8613

Portfolio 27" Painted Pc Table Lamp Item# 153500 Model# T40361A

Portfolio 11" Natural Hardback Shade Item# 235064 Model# S-101511

allen roth 5' x 7'9 Perth Maple Item# 279223 Model# 64402

PROJECT: Craftsman Inspired Entrance Table

Creating a piece of furniture for your home can be an uplifting and rewarding experience. Building your own furniture is often less expensive than buying it from a store, plus you get the satisfaction of saying you made it yourself. With a little bit of patience and a few tools you can master these instructions.

Step 1

Select the type of wood you wood like to use. In this case we used walnut hard wood.

Step 2

We used 5/4 thick boards for the tabletop, 3/4 for the shelf, and 8/4 for the legs.

Step 3

Edge glue boards together to get the desired width for the tabletop and shelf.

Step 4

When edge gluing boards together be sure to run them through and edge jointer to straighten the boards and conceal the joint.

Step 5

Cut #20 biscuit slots into the edge of the boards and add biscuits to reinforce the joints

Step 6

Apply glue to all mating surfaces and use plenty of steady clamping pressure.

Step 7

Cut 1 3/4 square blanks out of the 8/4 stock to form the legs. Our table was 30" tall.

Step 8

Two thirds of the way down the leg we added a 5 degree taper to the inside corner of the legs.

Step 9

Next cut the long and short apron rails. These act as a frame for the tabletop to attach too and connects the legs with mortise and tenon joints.

Step 10

Form tenons at the end of each apron rail. Make corresponding mortises in the legs to receive the tenon's.

Step 11

Apply wood glue to all mortises and tenon's and glue up the legs and aprons.

Step 12

Using band clamps and bar clamps apply strong even pressure until glue begins to ease out of the joints.

Step 13

Once the tabletop and shelf glue up has cured remove from the clamps and use a cabinet scrapper to remove exes dry glue and level joints.

Step 14

Use a belt sander with a 100 grit belt to finish leveling the joints.

Step 15

Once the base has cured remove form clamps and hand sand the entire piece with 120 girt sand paper.

Step 16

Continue sanding with 220 grit. If you plan on using a tongue oil finish like we did do not sand beyond 220. You must leave the wood porous enough to absorb the oil.

Step 17

Cut the table top and shelf to size on the crosscut sled to ensure a square cut.

Step 18

Notch the corners of the shelf with a hand saw to fit around the inside corner of the legs.

Step 19

Drill a pocket screw in each corner of the shelf and attach it to the legs just above the taper where the legs remain square.

Step 20

Using figure 8 hardware to allow for wood movement attached the table top to the base.

Step 21

Use compressed air to blow all of the dusk from the pores of the wood.

Step 22

Finish with several coats of tongue oil.

Step 23

Enjoy for the next hundred years or so!!!

Valspar 1-Gallon Interior Latex Matte Base 1 Item# 45321 Model# 45321

Cabot Australian Timber Oil VOC Natural - Gallon Item# 238952 Model# 140-9400

PROJECT: If you're looking for an alternative to wall-to-wall carpet or something smaller like area rugs or a runner – look no further. Modular carpet tiles are the way to go! With a variety of patterns, designs and colors to choose from you can create a custom look in a few easy steps. Made from recyclable materials these durable tiles are easy to install, and simple to replace if one of the squares gets stained or worn.

Step 1

Start by cleaning the surface where you are going to place your carpet Flor tiles.

Step 2

Find the center of your space by marking the surface with a chalk line from corner to corner. Using a tape measure, find the center of the walls and make a mark on the surface and again, mark with a chalk line.

Step 3

Using these lines, begin laying your tile, from the center out. (Ensure to follow the guide arrows on the reverse side).

Step 4

After laying your first few tiles, place Flor Dots (Patented stickers included) stickers glue side up. 1/4 of each sticker to a tile.

Step 5

Continue laying tiles and stickers outward until no full tiles fit.

Step 6

Using a tape measure, find the size you need to make the tile. Transfer that measurement to the tile and using a straight edge and carpet knife, cut the excess of the tile off and adhere with stickers.

Step 7

Continue Step 6 until entire surface is covered.

Portfolio 6-Light Bronze Traditional Chandelier Item# 63496 Model# 63496

Oldcastle 8"L x 2"W Red/Charcoal/Tan Harvard Paver Item# 287158 Model# NA

PROJECT: Redwood Step Down and Decorative Landing

By following these instructions you can add steps and a decorative landing to almost any area of our house. Whether it be just outside your front door, or off a deck or patio these directions will help guide you in creating a project that at first may seem intimidating.

Step 1

We used redwood for the step down. Redwood is durable, long lasting, has a fantastic color, and is chemical free, making it the ideal material for outdoor projects!

Step 2

Start by digging four holes for your 4x4 treated posts; 12 inches deep.

Step 3

Cut 4, 4x4 pieces into 2 foot lengths. One foot of post will go into the hole and the other foot will be left sticking out of the ground.

Step 4

Mix concrete and pour around the new footings (treated 4x4 posts). Make sure all posts are plumb and square.

Step 5

After the concrete has cured, attach 2x6 redwood boards to the posts. These out sideboards will form the rim joist. Attach 2x6 joists to the inside of the rim joist, we spaced them 16 inches apart.

Step 6

Now it's time to attach the deck boards with 2 1/2 inch coated deck screws perpendicular to the joists.

Step 7

The new 4 foot by 4 foot deck needed a step so we built a redwood box out of the 2x6 redwood and attached it to the front two posts.

Step 8

After sanding the deck, sealed it with Olympic redwood deck sealer.

Step 9

With the steps complete, it's time to move onto the decorative landing

Step 10

First we built a redwood frame 4 feet by 4 feet with 2x6 boards.

Step 11

Lay the redwood frame on the ground, then start to dig out the ground around the frame with a shovel. After you have made an outline of the frame dig out the square 8 inches deep.

Step 12

After you dig out the dirt put your 2x6 frame into the ground. This frame will act as a boarder for the landing.

Step 13

Now fill the framed area with crushed stone, then a layer of sand and tamp down and level.

Step 14

Begin at a corner pressing the bricks down into the sand. Make them about as close together as possible.

Step 15

We used a basket weave pattern, requiring no cutting of bricks.

Step 16

After laying all the bricks, spread sand over them. Using a broom work the sand into the cracks between the bricks. Then spray off any remaining sand with a garden hose.

Step 17

Cleanup.

Step 18

Nice job!

Valspar 1-Gallon Interior Latex Flat Enamel Base 2 VOC Item# 90680Model# 80680

Cabot 1-Quart Oil Wood Stain Ebony Item# 263201Model# 144.0008132.005

PROJECT: Fireplace Mantle

If you're looking to create a high-end look on a low cost budget consider adding a substantial wood mantle to your fireplace façade. Adding a mantle to a fireplace can dramatically change the look and style of your room.

Step 1

Since there was already an existing small mantle we chose to build upon that rather than taking it down. We used the existing mantle to attach our new oak mantle.

Step 2

This design plan called for the final mantle to be 14 1/2" deep with a 9 1/2" face. We chose to build our frame work out of 3/4 inch Pine plywood, and the mantle out of 3/4" Oak Plywood.

Step 3

Because the plaster and lathe construction of the existing mantle was uneven, we used a 3/4 inch pine plywood ripped on the table saw to 13", then attached it onto the existing 2X4 frame using 3" deck screws. We use wooden shims to level the 3/4" plywood.

Step 4

Remember this piece will be covered up by the new mantle shelf, but all screws must be counter sunk and the Pine plywood level and smooth. Once this is secure you can move on to the mantle build.

Step 5

Next we used 3/4 inch Oak plywood to make the mantle. Oak plywood is inexpensive and we are covering all the ply edges with 1 1/2" x 1/4" stock oak strips.

Step 6

Take measurements for the top shelf; front, bottom, and two sides. Take precise measurements, measure twice and cut once. We used construction adhesive and 1 1/2 nails to attach the 4 pieces. We located fasteners where they will be covered with the oak molding strips. Now that the oak mantle surround is built, dry fit the mantle into place to fit.

Step 7

Next install the Oak molding. First attach the molding along the edge of the surround with 45 degree mitre cuts at the corners. Then attach with 1" finish nails and carpenters glue.

Step 8

To sand, use orbital sander with 120 grit, then go to 180 grit, then to 220 grit. Using progressively finer pieces of sand paper gives a smooth finish.

Step 9

After the sanding is done, you are ready to stain the mantle. We chose to use 3 coats of Minwax oil based stain in Ebony, and applied with cloth rags. We followed the manufacturers directions.

Step 10

After the stain is dry, install the mantle surround to the frame work using 1 1/2" nails along the back edge. Best to hide all nails under the 3/4 inch edge trim that you'll use to finish off the mantle.

Step 11

Next, apply 4 coats of Minwax water based polyurethane for the ultimate shine and durability. We used a synthetic bristle brush and sanded between coats.

Step 12

To finish off the mantle we stained and polyurethaned 3/4 inch molding. We used 45 degree mitre joints when wrapping it around the fireplace wall. Because 3/4 inch quarter round can split when you nail it we used adhesive to attach to the mantle top shelf.

Step 13

Mantle complete.

Tools You May Need:

Table Saw
Miter saw
Brad Nailer/Finish Nailer
Sandpaper
Nail Set
Hammer
Paint brush
Rags
Drill Driver
Jigsaw
Level
Random Orbital Sander

Valspar Ultra Premium 1-Gallon Interior Latex Flat Base 1 Item# 94785Model# 94785

Valspar Ultra Premium 1-Gallon Interior Latex Flat Base 4 Item# 94902Model# 94902

PROJECT: Modern Fireplace Facelift

A modern fireplace facelift can be easily achieved if you follow these guidelines. Modern designs typically feature clean straight lines and have less details and decoration to them. Think simle yet stylish. Updating your fireplace can change the whole look of your room and what was once an eyesore quickly becomes the focal point of the room.

Step 1

We used Travertine 16"x16" natural stone tile. The size of this tile helps to create the smooth vertical modern style. Also bigger tiles mean less grout lines!

Step 2

The installation techniques are very similar to ceramic. Since the brick was painted we needed a proper surface to bond our tiles to so we added cement backer board over the brick.

Step 3

We attached the backer board with construction adhesive and 3" masonry screws every 8".

Step 4

After the masonry board is up, you can start with the tile.

Step 5

Lay out the end wall so that the cut tiles end at the edges. This makes the edges less obvious. Tip: You want any cut tiles on the edge so that the tile remains symmetrical and pleasing to the eye.

Step 6

Next snap chalk lines both vertical and horizontal. These will serve as guidelines to keep the tiles straight.

Step 7

Mix the thin set mortar according to instructions on the bag. Use white mortar for white tiles!

Step 8

Start in the middle above the fireplace and work out to the edges.

Step 9

For this project, there is no need to use tile spacers. You want the wall to look as smooth and seamless as possible.

Step 10

Cuts are simple and straightforward when you use a tile saw. Tip: A diamond blade tile saw is the way to go with natural stone tiles.

Step 11

Since you are not grouting the tiles, they must be tight up against each other. Make certain each tile is tight and flush to attain a smooth transition from one tile to the next.

Step 12

Some mortar may come out between the tiles. If this occurs, wipe off wet mortar with a damp sponge.

Step 13

Polish off any mortar haze with a wet towel then buff tiles with a dry towel.

Step 14

Caulk the edges and corners with white caulk.

Step 15

Continue this process onto the hearth. For our project we tiled to the front edge of hearth and 12"s beyond the fireplace opening.

Step 16

The brick work on the side the fireplace was covered with 1/2" drywall using construction adhesive. Next tape and float dry wall. Prime then Paint!

Step 17

Lastly cover the remaining bricks on the hearth using 1/2" birch plywood using construction adhesive. Next sand the birch plywood then applied 4 coats of polyurethane.

Step 18

Many layers went into updating this fireplace, and we did them one step at a time starting with tiling, then dry wall, then woodwork and painting last.

Step 19

Finally start a nice cozy fire, relax, then enjoy!

Valspar Ultra Premium 5-Gallon Interior Latex Flat Ultra White Item# 142275Model# 142275

Hunter 48" Talon Brushed Nickel Ceiling Fan Item# 295004Model# 20731

PROJECT: Custom Built-In Display & Book Case

It's almost impossible not to go through life without accumulating stuff. If you're like most folks you need to strike a balance on what needs to be stored away and what should be out for show. Building a custom display case is a great way to showcase personal items, plus it gives a room distinct character.

Step 1

Take measurements of the wall you plan to create your built-in on.

Step 2

Divide the width of your measured space in half and build 6 boxes, 14" high and the width measurement. (4 boxes for the lower section and 2 for the upper section.)

Step 3

Using 1"X12" paint grade lumber, begin by constructing the lower boxes.

Step 4

Build a 3 1/2" riser using 1"X 4" paint grade stock. This will act as a kick plate.

Step 5

Install the kick plate to the wall using 3" screws.

Step 6

Install the first 2 boxes side by side on the kick plate by screwing together with 1 1/4 inch screws.

Step 7

Install the next 2 boxes side by side on top of the first two boxes by screwing together with 1 1/4 inch screws. Attach to the bottom boxes using 1 1/4 inch screws. Once together, attach to the wall with 3" screws through the ledger into the wall ensuring to screw into studs.

Step 8

Install final 2 boxes by screwing together, side by side, with 1 1/4 inch screws and attach to the wall at ceiling height with 3" screws through the ledger into the wall ensuring to screw into studs.

Step 9

Measure the height between the bottom and top sections. Cut 4 pieces of 1"X12" stock to that length. Also cut 3 pieces of the same stock at 14".

Step 10

Attach the 14" pieces to 2 of the 1"X12" stock that was just cut. (These can be attached equidistant from the center, or whatever best serves your needs)

Step 11

Attach a ledger to the inside back, and attach to the wall using 3" screws through the ledger and into the wall, ensuring to attach to a stud. (Placement of this piece should be off center, but again, place in the best place for you and your needs)

Step 12

Attach the other two pieces of 1"X12" stock to the sides of the unit. This is for support and adding shelves.

Step 13

Using 1"X2" paint grade stock, measure, cut, and attach with glue and nails to the face of the installed unit, creating a face frame.

Step 14

Using 1"X12" stock, various size dowel rods, and quarter round molding, create shelving that fills your needs and adds visual interest.

Step 15

Fill all holes with wood filler.

Step 16

Sand, prime and paint.

Step 17

Show off your stuff!

Allen + Roth 72" - 144" Brushed Nickel Drapery Hardware Set Item# 275133Model# 275133

Valspar 1-Gallon Interior Latex Matte Base 1 Item# 45321Model# 45321

PROJECT: Installing A Coffered Ceiling

A coffered ceiling is an architectural detail that cannot be ignored. Adding this look to a room makes a bold statement plus it adds a touch of luxury and sophistication to the space. The word coffered is derived from the French word "box". These multiple boxes can be as ornate or as simple as your design dictates. Coffered ceiling also serve a practical purpose that many people may not be aware of. They help reduce noise by absorbing excess sound in a room.

Step 1

If you plan on painting the ceiling a dark color we suggest you prime the ceiling using a tinted primer before you start any coffer work. A tinted primer will save you from adding a second coat of paint down the line.

Step 2

Our ceiling project was designed for the coffers to be 33" equal squares. In order to accomplish this we formed a grid pattern on the ceiling using chalk lines. Tip: Lay your design out on paper first, then transfer your measurements to the ceiling.

Step 3

Make sure the beams are spaced evenly across the ceiling. The beams will be accurate as long as your measurements are.

Step 4

We used blue chalk lines for the width and red chalk lines for the length. After the chalk lines are in place and all the lines are square you can start the assembly of the beams.

Step 5

The ceiling is made up of a series of box beams using 3/4" birch plywood; top, bottom and two sides.

Step 6

We made our box beams 6" square first. We made u-shaped box beams leaving off the bottom.

Step 7

After the u-shaped boxed beams are complete, start installing them to the ceiling grid. Start with one wall and install one continuous u-beam across the length of the room. Make sure the beams intersect the rafters for greater attachment! We attached the box beams using construction adhesive and 3" deck screws. The rafters we attached to where 12" on center but most ceiling rafters will be 16" on center. Attach 3 screws to each rafter.

Step 8

This build had 6 continuous box beams running the length of the room. Once these are up you can move to the next half of the beam installation.

Step 9

Next measure the distance between the u shaped box beams installed. Install the u shaped beams running perpendicular. We toe nailed these smaller beams to the continuous beams using glue, 3" finish nails and nail gun.

Step 10

Now that all the u-shaped box beams are installed, attach the "beam cap" 4th side of the box. We used 1 1/2 finish nails and glue to attach the beam cap.

Step 11

Once all the box beams are up and installed move on to installing the trim in each coffer.

Step 12

This next step is very time consuming because there is a lot installation work, but it is well worth the effort and time spent. If you can get help, take it. We chose to split up this task among three people. One person measured, another person cut and the third installed the trim. We used 1 1/2" finish nails and glue to attach the trim work.

Step 13

Next sand all the beams, fill nail holes with wood putty and caulk. FYI: We used a case of painters caulk on this project.

Step 14

After all the spaces and gaps have been filled and all the wood is smooth, prime all the wood and trim.

Step 15

Paint with a white semi gloss using 3 coats.

Step 16

This is a big project to undertake and requires lots of help, but the end result is stunning.

Americana Building Products 24"P x 48"W Sunbrella Black Classic Rainbo Awning Item# 139067Model# CR48BK

Oriental Weavers of America 9'10"W x 12'9"L Portland Beige Area Rug Item# 23994Model# CHL11E0L

PROJECT: Wine Bar Cart

Whether you're short on space or have a spacious dining area, a wine bar on wheels is a fabulous multi-functional piece of furniture. Our rolling wine cart makes for a great side table to hold appetizers, drinks or for displaying your best dishware. Stock up on your favorite wine because there is plenty of open storage underneath, plus room for stemware.

Step 1

Laminate three pieces of 3/4 solid mahogany. Select boards that have similar color and grain so the resulting 'glue up' looks like one solid piece of wood. Thoroughly coat the faces of three boards with wood glue and clamp them together to cure.

Step 2

Once cured, remove boards from clamps. Rip stock on table saw to 4 1/2 “ Square.

Step 3

Then cut into 4 even pieces. This will represent the height of your table minus the casters, in this case 30".

Step 4

Using a 1/4" dato blade run a groove 3/8" deep and 26" long through the middle of the leg stock and stop. Repeat to all four legs.

Step 5

Just below where the groove stops, taper the legs 5 degrees on the inside edges.

Step 6

Cut rails for the side and back panels. These will determine the length and width of the cart.

Step 7

Run the same groove all the way through the rails to accept the panels.

Step 8

Cut the side and back panels out of mahogany veneer plywood. The measurement will be the rectangular space between the rails and legs plus and extra 1/4" on all sides to fit into the grooves.

Step 9

Assemble all three panels individually, sliding the panels in the grooves and joining the top and bottom rails to the leg stock using pocket screws.

Step 10

Now join the panels to each other using pocket screws.

Step 11

Cut a top and bottom rail for the front of the cabinet, and attach them using pocket screws.

Step 12

Now you have a sturdy cabinet. Cut a shelf and attach it with pocket screws.

Step 13

Using 3/4 solid stock the width of the cabinet cut a 50 degree V using two boards and attach to the shelf screwing from underneath.

Step 14

Cut a top out of 3/4 mahogany veneer plywood that overhangs the cabinet by 2" all the way around.

Step 15

Attach with figure eight hardware and screws from underneath.

Step 16

Trim the plywood edge with 3/4 molding.

Step 17

Attach caster wheels to the bottom of the legs.

Step 18

Stock with your favorite wine and enjoy!!!

Beige Basketweave Textured Wallpaper Item# 147751 Model# 12946

PROJECT: Installing Wainscoting

Wainscoting has been in the designer spotlight for over 100 years. Installing this type of architectural detail to a room adds a sense of elegance to a space, plus it can bring the past to life. Many homeowners also like the durability it gives to walls that are in high traffic areas. For our project makeover we wanted to put a new twist on a classic and well-loved traditional detail by combining it with a custom built-in for storage.

Step 1

Wainscoting is a wall covering constructed from rigid or semi-rigid components. Traditionally interlocking wood is used. We used Poplar 1x4 and Pine trim.

Step 2

This classic wainscoting design does not require a layout. Simply start at one end of the wall and continue across the room.

Step 3

Our frame components include base (cabinets) and top and bottom rails (horizontal pieces), stiles (vertical) and the top shelf. For this project we chose to use paint grade 1x4 poplar for the rails and stiles.

Step 4

For the bottom rail we ripped a 1x4 in half and set it on the top of the cabinet. We used wood glue to attach the bottom rail to the top of the cabinet. We attached the bottom rail to the wall with construction adhesive and 2 1/2 finish nails.

Step 5

After the bottom rail was securely in place we then started with our stiles.

Step 6

We started from right to left, with the first rail in the corner. We applied construction adhesive to the stile and to the wall. Once the stile was plumb we attached with a nail gun using 2 1/2 nails.

Step 7

After all the stiles are in place it's time to attach the top rail. Use the same technique for the top rail. Also, for a stronger build, place nails into the wall studs that are 16" on center for the top and bottom rails.

Step 8

Traditionally the top of the wainscoting is a trim piece or cap. We went a step further and added a shelf to the top. We used 1x4 poplar for the top and we purchased the wooded shelf supports.

Step 9

We attached the wooden shelf supports with construction adhesive and 3" screws.

Step 10

After all the shelf supports are in place, attach the shelf. Use wood glue on the top of the shelf support and all along the edge of the top rail. Place the 1x4 on top of the top rail and shelf support, then attach using a nail gun with 1 1/2 finish nails.

Step 11

The next step is installing the decorative trim inside the rectangle pattern. Cut all the edges at a 45 degree angle. We used construction adhesive and 1 1/2 finish nails to attach to the wall.

Step 12

Sand smooth.

Step 13

Fill and finish off any nail holes.

Step 14

Conceal all gaps with painters caulk.

Step 15

Prime all the wood and existing wall. We chose a semi-gloss paint and used 3 coats to achieve the look we were after.

Step 16

Have fun, go forth, and build well.

Harbor Breeze 52" Bronze Endicott Ceiling Fan Item# 294999Model# 7252644

allen + roth 72"-144"W Raffia Texture Rod Item# 275318Model# LO-91277BR

PROJECT: Building A Kitchen Bench

If you're looking to add seating to your kitchen but you're limited on space, then a custom-made bench is a great solution. Plus squeeze in more usable space by building a bench that doubles as a storage box. Our kitchen bench serves up both style and function!

Step 1

Start by cutting 2" X 4" stock to the various lengths listed below. a. 12 @ 19" b. 4 @ 46 1/2" c. 4 @ 22"

Step 2

Begin by assembling the inside supports. Use 8 pieces of the 19" and butt 2 pieces edge to edge so that one side is 3 1/2" and 5" on other face. Secure them with 3" screws. You should have 4 L- shape supports.

Step 3

Next build the sides of the frame. Using 3" screws, connect 2 supports on the top and bottom with (2) 22" pieces on the 3 1/2" face.

Step 4

Repeat step 3 with remaining supports and 22" pieces.

Step 5

Next, construct a rectangle that will be the structure for the bench. With 3" screws, connect the two sides on top and bottom with 46 1/2" stock.

Step 6

Using 3" screws, attach the remaining 19" stock vertically to the inside of the 46 1/2" pieces for support.

Step 7

Create the seat back using 4 pieces of 2" X 4" cut at 24". Simply attach the bottom of the stock to the back of the seat using 3" screws.

Step 8

With the back seat frame complete, we can begin facing the bench with plywood. Start with the bottom of the bench. Measure, cut and attach 3/4" oak plywood with glue and 1 1/2" screws.

Step 9

Repeat step 8 on the front and back. Note: exposed edging and exposed screw holes will be hidden by trim later in the process.

Step 10

For the sides, make a template so that the side pieces continue up the sides of the seatback.

Step 11

Using the template, cut and attach plywood using glue and 1 1/2" screws.

Step 12

Measure, cut and attach the front of the seatback using glue and 1 1/2" brad nails.

Step 13

Cut (3) pieces of 2 1/2" solid oak stock to 48". Attach (1) piece to the top of the seatback, (1) piece flush to the front on the seat, and (1) piece to the back of the seat with glue and 1 1/2" brad nails. This will leave just the center section of the seat exposed.

Step 14

Measure width of exposed seat area and rip 1" X 12" solid oak stock to the proper width minus 1/4".

Step 15

Attach the seat top to the back of the seat with a piano hinge.

Step 16

Using a paddle bit, drill a hole in a desired location of the seat top, for easy opening.

Step 17

Create a border around the unit using 1/4" X 3" solid oak stock, starting with the sides, measure, cut, and attach stock using glue and 3/4" brad nails.

Step 18

Sand, stain, and polyurethane as desired.

Bruce Turlington Locking Hickory Hardwood Flooring Item# 260746Model# EHK42LG

Del Conca 12.00"W x 12.00"L Rialto Porcelain Beige Tile Item# 22924Model# G3TG11MO

Valspar 1-Gallon Interior Latex Flat Base 1 Item# 94785Model# 94785

Trade Am 10'W x 13'L Natural Perth Area Rug Item# 279223Model# 64854

PROJECT: Mosaic Tile Fireplace Insert

If your fireplace is not the focal point you were hoping it would be, try adding colorful mosaic tile. These natural stones panels are usually attached to a 12" mesh backing, making it quick and easy to install, plus it helps create a seamless tile look.

Step 1

To start, if you have any unwanted tile you'll want to remove it first. Start by removing the grout around the tiles assigned for demolition.

Step 2

Using a chisel and a hammer, crack the tiles into small pieces.

Step 3

Carefully remove the broken pieces by prying them with the chisel.

Step 4

Remove the old cement board and replace with new cement board.

Step 5

Mix thinset to the recommended consistency.

Step 6

Apply thinset horizontally to the brick using a 1/8" v-notched trowel. Note: only apply to an area you can comfortably tile within 5 minute intervals.

Step 7

Next find and mark the center of the area.

Step 8

Work outward and downward with your field tile using 1/16" spacers.

Step 9

Allow to dry overnight.

Step 10

Apply grout.

Step 11

Wipe grout with a sponge and CLEAN water.

Step 12

Apply a grout sealant.

Step 13

TIP: After measuring the area you want to cover add 5% to 7% more to your order to cover any repairs or if you need to cut tile into smaller pieces to fit corners or narrow edges.

American Standard 30.00"W Expresso Studio Bath Vanity Item# 165707Model# 9205.030.339

Giagni 67"L x 31.8"W White Acrylic Tub Item# 287544Model# LCAT-167-W

Royce Lighting 1-Light Chrome Contemporary Arm Sconce Item# 118423Model# RV2164/1CH