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Plant a Rose Garden
Rose gardening has given many people the impression that roses are difficult to grow and maintain. Growing roses can be challenging, but you don't have to leave it to the experts. Here is a brief tutorial on rose basics for beginners.
Rose Planting Types
Roses are available in three types for planting:
- Bare-root roses are dormant, sold during winter and early spring. Plant them as soon as the ground warms enough to be workable.
- Prepackaged roses are bare-root plants packaged in a bag or box with a moisture retaining medium such as sawdust around the roots.
- Container-grown roses are grown in containers at the nursery. They're budding or already blooming and are available in spring.
Rose Growing Types
Roses are defined by their growing type.
- One type is budded, meaning that one variety of rose is grafted onto the roots of a sturdier variety. The grafting is visible at the bud union. Grafted roses combine the best qualities of strong rootstock with the foliage and blooms of the grafted variety.
- Roses are also grown on their own roots. Own-root plants are grown from cuttings so the entire plant is of the same variety.
If a grafted rose is heavily pruned or cold-damaged, the rose that grows back may be of the rootstock's variety, not the grafted one you purchased. Under the same circumstances, the own-root rose will grow back true to its variety.
Rose Grading
Bareroot roses are graded according to the quality of their growth. Grades also designate the future size and productivity of the rose. Grades are established by the American Association of Nurserymen and should be noted on the plant tag. The three grades are:
- #1 is the best of a variety. Three or more healthy canes and a strong root system are essential.
- #1.5 roses have two or more thin canes and usually take longer to develop.
- #2 roses have one or two small, thin canes and may require extra care to establish.
For the best of the best, look for The All-American Rose Selection (AARS) designation. These roses are judged to be the superior in disease resistance, flower production, color and fragrance. With all of the varieties available, you're sure to find a variety to fit your taste and garden style.
Planting Roses
When planting roses, whether bare-root or container-grown, the procedure is the same as for other shrubs. Remember a few key factors that especially affect roses:
- Remember that the bud union should be about one inch below soil level when planted.
- In warm areas, the graft can be slightly above soil level.
- Prior to planting, cut off any dead leaves as well as decayed or thin shoots. Also prune damaged or extremely long roots.
- Soak bareroot roses in tepid water overnight before planting.
- Always water soil well when planting.
- If you're able to plant within ten days of getting the rose, leave it in its package in an unheated (but frost-proof) room. Keep it moist until you're ready to plant. If planting after ten days, heel-in the plants until you are able to plant properly.
- Make sure the hole is large enough to accommodate root growth.
- Roses appreciate organic matter mixed into the soil when planting.
Fertilizer, Water and Mulch for Roses
Fertilizing Roses
Roses are heavy feeders and need several applications of fertilizer during the growing season. Use a fertilizer formulated especially for roses and follow the instructions on the package. In general, begin feeding when new growth starts in the spring and discontinue feeding in early fall. Feeding too late will stimulate new growth that is susceptible to winter injury. Do not exceed the recommended application rate. Water thoroughly after each feeding.
Watering Roses
Roses need a lot of water. Remember how deep you planted the rose? Water needs to reach that level to get to the roots and keep the plant healthy and blooming. Water thoroughly at least twice a week if there is no rainfall. Set a watering schedule and adjust as dictated by the weather.
Summer especially brings a need for vigilance. Even though you may see fewer flowers during the summer, cooler weather will bring more, so keep up the watering schedule. To discourage black spot and mildew, water in the morning and avoid wetting the leaves.
Mulching Roses
A three- to four-inch layer of organic mulch will control weeds, retain soil moisture and help maintain a constant soil temperature. As organic mulch breaks down, it improves soil structure and adds nutrients.
Pruning Roses
Proper pruning increases blooms and promotes healthy plants. In general, prune when growth just begins; from midwinter to mid-spring depending on where you live. Your signal is when the uppermost buds begin to swell, but leaves are yet to appear. Each variety has specific recommendations, so check yours before cutting.
- First remove all dead wood, cutting back to healthy wood.
- Reduce the number of canes. The number of canes to leave and their recommended lengths differ by variety.
- During the growing season, prune only to remove diseased foliage or canes.
- Deadhead faded flowers.
- Destroy any diseased foliage to control disease spread.
- Use curved by-pass pruners for the cleanest cut. Keep your pruner blades sharp.
Other Tips for Rose Care
- Buy good, healthy plants.
- Roses need full sun for optimal growth and blooming. Select an area that receives a minimum of six hours of sunlight a day.
- Plant in an area with good air circulation to decrease disease susceptibility.
- Avoid overcrowding.
- Prepare the soil with organic material before planting.
- Provide good drainage. Soil should be loose (not compacted).
- Feed plants for proper plant development.
- Clean up dead branches and leaves from the rose garden.
- Inspect plants regularly for any problems.
- Treat problems immediately.
- Treat both the top and bottom of the leaves when applying sprays or dusts to leaves.
- Find a concise rose grower's guide to use as reference.
Primary Rose Pests and Diseases
Problem | Description | Solution |
| Black Spot | Circular black spots with fringed margins and possibly yellow edges appear on leaves. Leaves may drop prematurely. | Spray foliage every 7 to 10 days throughout the growing season with a chlorothalonil fungicide*. Don't water with sprinklers. Rake up and destroy fallen leaves. Spray entire plant with lime-sulfur dormant spray in late winter. Apply 1 to 2 inches of fresh mulch atop the rose bed each spring. |
| Rose Virus | Yellow spots or patterns on foliage and malformed new growth. | Rose virus is transmitted during grafting or budding at the nursery. There's no successful way to control this virus with chemicals. Remove and destroy an infected plant if it becomes too weak to bloom properly. |
| Powdery Miwdew | Thin layer of grayish-white powdery material forms on young plant parts. Infected leaves may distort, curl or turn yellow or purple and drop off. | Spray foliage with fungicide at first sign of mildew. Spray again at intervals of 7 to 10 days if mildew reappears. Rake up and destroy fallen leaves. |
| Japanese Beetle | Holes appear on leaves and buds. Beetles are red, green-spotted, brown or metallic green and up to 1/2" long. | Remove small numbers by hand and destroy. If the infestation is severe, spray flowers and foliage with carbaryl once a week from June until September. It is best to spray during evening to avoid killing bees. |
| Thrips | Leaves, flower buds and flowers distort and may be flecked with yellow or brown streaks and spots. | Shake infected flower over white paper. Tiny yellow or brown insects will be easily seen against white background. Remove and destroy infested blooms and buds. Spray flowers, buds and foliage with acephate insecticide three times at intervals of 7 to 10 days. |