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Provide a display space or drop-off station in a hallway or entry with this wall-mounted table. Customize the wood and metal finishes to suit your decor.
Items may be Special Order in some stores. Product costs, availability, and item numbers may vary online or by market. Paint colors may vary slightly from those shown. Availability varies by market for lumber species and sizes.
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From the 1 x 4, cut three boards 29-5/8 inches long. From the 1 x 2, cut two boards 29-5/8 inches long and three boards 9 inches long.
Clamp together the frame (A, B) without glue to double-check that the width of the three 1 x 4s laid side by side is equal to the width of the frame.
Glue and clamp the front and back (A) to the frame sides (B) (Drawing 1). Drive single 1-1/2-inch screws at each joint, placing the screws within 5/8 inch of the top edge of the board. Use a carpenter’s square to check each corner.
Center the middle brace face up between the front and back, and glue it in place. Drill two pilot holes through the frame front and back, and screw the brace in position. (Again, position the screws 5/8 inch from the top edge of the front and back where they will be hidden by the moulding.)
Place the three 1 x 4s (C) on the frame with the ends and outside edges even with the edges and ends of the frame (Drawing 2). Nail the ends, edges, and center of each board to the frame. Then countersink the nails below the wood surface.
Cut a piece of moulding about 32 inches long with a 45-degree miter on one end for the front (D). On a short piece of scrap moulding, cut 45-degree miters on both ends. Slide the matching miters together at one corner of the top until they’re tight together. While holding the front moulding in position, mark where the other end of the tabletop touches the moulding. (A helper makes this easier.) Cut the front moulding to length (Drawing 3). Then glue and nail it in place.
Cut two pieces of moulding about 12 inches long for the sides (E), each with a miter on one end at an angle that will join with the front moulding. (One will be on the right end and the other on the left.) Hold a side moulding in position on one end and mark the length at the back edge of the tabletop. Cut the moulding to length and repeat for the opposite moulding. Then glue and nail them in place.
Decide where the table will mount on the wall and find the locations of two wall studs relative to the edges of the table. (They may not be the same distance from each end as shown in the drawing, but they should still be 16 inches apart.) Mark the stud locations on the back of the tabletop frame and drill mounting holes.
You could drill mounting holes from the outside edge to the inside of the top, but the holes need to be at a slight angle to accommodate the length of your drill. By drilling from the inside out, you’ll have the necessary angle when driving the screws. Avoid positioning the holes in the corners where you’ll attach the legs.
Install a flange on one end of a 30-inch pipe with a cap on the other end. With the tabletop upside down, position a leg in one corner and mark the flange mounting screw hole locations on the wood (Drawing 4). Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes and repeat at the other end of the tabletop.
Screw the legs to underside of the tabletop. Position the top against a wall and drive the #8 x 2-1/2-in mounting screws into the studs. Estimated cost: $123 with the finishes shown.
If the table legs will rest on a hard-surface floor, attach adhesive-back felt pads to the bottoms of the pipe caps.